Sunday, May 25, 2008

Day 71: San Francisco

Everyone who might be reading this by now knows that these last few entries - long-delayed by slackarseness as they are - are just being composed now, since I didn't actually finish the journal, right? Ok, just checking.
Meanwhile, I went to San Francisco, and it was very cool.
The whole San Francisco Bay Area is remarkable, and it's beyond a metropolis - it's a megalopolis. It's probably the only metropolis in the world in which the city from which it takes its name isn't actually the biggest. As in, San Francisco isn't the biggest city in the SFBA.
Today was a faux-death march around the city, getting a taste of its neighbourhoods and sights. It was a faux-death march because Chris was kind enough to drive me everywhere. Walking from Chinatown to Haight-Ashbury to the Cliff House really isn't an option, unfortunately. We started out with Chinatown, Coit Tower, and a walk around some of the notoriously steep streets, with their lovely (albeit foggy) views and nifty terraced gardens. Next, we went to Pier 39 to see the sealions. The rest of the Fisherman's Wharf area is pretty tourist-trappy, but it's worth going to see the wonderful sight of such a mass of stinky, barking mammal lounging around on pontoons. I also love the idea of a group of wild animals just deciding to take over a man-made space, like, "nice wharf - we'll take it."
Leaving the wharf, we had a long drive across town, parked at the edge of Golden Gate Park, and wandered to Haight-Ashbury. Sadly, it was not 1968, and George Harrison was not present. It's still very groovy and funky and "alternative"-y and all that. We went to an awesome place for lunch that serves only a variety of kebabs - various meats, various marinades. Next, we popped into an enormous record store, where I somehow managed to not buy anything.
Back to Golden Gate Park, we looked around the outside of a rather monstrous art museum, with lots of fun sculpture outside. From there, we drove around the park - which is massive, 1017 acres, and according to LP, "the largest developed city park in the world" - looking for the elusive herd of resident bison. The bison, it turned out, were stabled away whilst their paddock was being replanted or something, but we got to see a lot of the park in the process.
We emerged from the park onto the ocean side of San Francisco, drove past the Cliff House, and began another elusive hunt, this time for views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Those views were not to be found, thanks to the ever-present fog. Nevertheless, we stopped on a beach where a couple of boys were spending their afternoon drawing a giant penis in the sand, captioned "PENIS" in case it was a little too abstract. This amused Chris and I much more than it really should have.
Finally, we drove into downtown San Francisco, walked around the city streets for a bit, and had a good pizza dinner. Walked through a sketchy neighbourhood I kept remembering as The T-Bone, but it turns out its name is actually The Tenderloin to get back to the car and drive ourselves home to Walnut Creek.
SF is a fascinating, super-cool city. There's nothing else like it.

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